
opinions
the following are extracts
Fodor’s
International Travel Guide, 03/08
“The
dining room here
is packed with young couples enjoying some of the town's best and most
eclectic
food. Chef Matt Donnelly's menu includes taste sensations like quail
marinated
in pomegranate molasses and a "Middle Eastern platter" with a
lamb-stuffed
potato pancake. The wine list has depth in both Aussie selections as
well as
interesting international wines”
Michael Harden,
Melbourne Weekly Magazine, 03/08
“It’s
hard to talk
about a restaurant having “positive energy” without
coming across as a bit of a
patchouli-drenched hippie. But there is something so good-natured and
hospitable about Fitzroy’s The Commoner that such a phrase
seems like a totally
legitimate description. Not that there is anything hippie about the
menu, but
from the comfortable fit out and welcoming staff to the user-friendly
menu of
Euro-influenced food, The Commoner presents itself as a unique and
positive
place.
The Commoner is a
place that combines modesty and passion in a most appealing and
disarming way.
It can leave even the most cynical among us spouting recycled slogans
from the
Summer of Love.”
Matt Preston,
Epicure, The Age, 28/07/07
“More
"bistro" are plates such as simply grilled squid with harissa, which
is a Moro staple, or the pan-fried gnocchi tossed with roasted mushroom
and
pecorino. On Sunday's there's a roast - maybe a shoulder of goat, or
pork that
could pop up the next day cold and generously sliced between the
thick-cut
white bread spread with a gooey quince aioli.
All this gives me
that
familiar tingle, but my feelings reach a fully fledged crush when their
freshly
fried beignets, the dark doughnuts dusted in lemon sugar, arrive. These
are all
crunch and hot air, making them sweet but light. They come rolled in
cardamom
sugar and with chocolate to dip in to ward off the winter chills
While The
Commoner
might be my latest love, I fully admit that next week will probably be
someone
else, but then the great thing about a restaurant relationship is that
there's
no taboo on adultery. After all, they entertain others every
night”
Scoop
Traveller Magazine
“The Commoner is certainly part of a
trend in
Fitzroy towards better eating but, in it’s attitude, flavour
and approach, it
is a place that holds it’s own unique position”
“Very
nice food boosts
the feel-good factor. Chef Matt Donnelly worked at Moro, London's
high-end
southern Mediterranean restaurant, for eight months. His share-friendly
menu
isn't strictly Moorish but there's an easy facility with ingredients
such as
white anchovies; picos (the creamy Spanish blue cheese he crumbles over
crazily
cloud-like semolina gnocchi); and pomegranate molasses (drizzled over a
flourless chocolate torte). Some offerings have a retro club-house skew
that owes
more to Corrigan's time at London gastropub The Brackenbury: there's
skate on
toast with parsley salad, and soft-boiled egg with celery salt. Other
dishes
nod to classics without being crippled by the pedigree. So, the fish
stew
references bouillabaisse with its saffron-infused broth and side dishes
of
rouille and croutons, then downsizes the classic soup by including just
flathead, skate and tiny clams. It's immensely satisfying.
All this is
delivered
by friendly, relaxed waiters who are concerned that you know about
Sunday
evening's potluck dinner when the menu is chucked out and you'll be fed
according to the chef's whim. As always, the fare is determined by what
leapt
out at the market as freshest and best.
Good food isn't a
rarity in Melbourne. Neither are well-designed, competently managed
restaurants. Even so, it's not very common that the whole caboodle gels
as
winningly as it does at The Commoner.”
Rita Erlich, De
Groots Media
“Classic
dishes are
prepared beautifully; just when you thought you might give up chicken,
along
comes the Commoner’s pan-roasted chook. The day’s
fish is cooked on a wood fire
in the small courtyard, which is open to diners in summer. The wine
list is
small but well chosen and the cocktails are seriously interesting. So
is Sunday
night pot luck. Delicious.”
VisitVictoria.com
“Communal
tables and
the regular Sunday woodfired roast (a shoulder of goat served with
Middle
Eastern sides), as well as a full bar service, make this a great place
to drink
and dine with friends. Be sure to ask after some 'cheeky food' - a
secret array
of off-the-menu items such as beignets (enriched choux pastry doughnuts
rolled
in spiced sugar).”
Winestate
Magazine
"There is
something of a food and wine renaissance happening in Fitzroy as smart
young
food-savvy operators move in to challenge the dominance of mediocre
cookie-cutter cafes. Hot on the heels of places like Ladro, Gertrude
Street
Enoteca, Panama Dining Room and Brunswick Street Alimentari is Johnston
St
newcomer, The Commoner. The Commoner’s owners, Jo and David
Corrigan,
and chef Matthew Donnelly
have
recently returned to Melbourne from London and have brought a sense of
quirky,
interesting British style to both the decor and the food that gives a
freshness
and originality to dining here.
Matthew cooked at
Moro
in London and his menu takes in influences from Spain, Morocco,
Britain, Italy
and France. The breakfast menu might include Arabic pancakes with
poached
quince and wildflower honey, while the dinner list includes both small,
interesting snack food (plump marinated anchovies on crostini with red
pepper
and aioli) and heartier dishes like a potato cake stuffed with spiced
lamb and
pine nuts. The wine list is brief and well priced and maintains a
democratic
balance of Old and New World labels. With its friendly, charming
service,
excellent courtyard out the back (the scene of barbecues on Sundays)
and
cleverly interesting food, The Commoner is a further refreshing breath
of tasty
air in Fitzroy”
The
Age Good Food Guide 2008, score 12.5/20
"Finding
something decent to eat in the vicinity of Brunswick Street is mostly a
needle-and-haystack
experience. Hence the quiet swell of local rejoicing when The Commoner
opened
its doors early in 2007, looking like a bright and breezy cafe with its
white
terrazzo floor, wooden tables and style-on-a-budget fitout, but going
above and
beyond the call of cafe duty with its food"
Herald Sun
Dining Out, Simon Plant,
19-06-07 Score: 14/20
"Don’t
believe the next person that tells
you there’s no place like home, they obviously
haven’t been to The Commoner.
They haven’t stood in the doorway of this friendly Fitzroy
diner admired the
artfully arranged feijoas and chestnut. Or been offered a woolen rug to
fold
over their chair during dinner. Or wandered out the back where roasted
veggies blister
and spit on an open flame.
The Commoner
–
decorated with all sorts of found objects – makes a virtue of
its humble
surroundings and creates an atmosphere at once comforting and
experimental.
The first time I
lunched here, I tasted tentacles of squid no bigger than 20 cent
pieces,
braised black cabbage with sheep’s pecorino, and an earthy
amalgam of pan-fried
apple, red capsicum and black pudding. Days later, when I returned for
dinner,
the list was entirely different”
Eatanddrink.com.au,
score 14/20
“Just
love this place!
It's a simple small shopfront on Johnston Street that promises little
and
delivers a lot. The room is comfortable and staff welcoming, tables
simply laid
but with attention to condiments and glassware. The menu gives respect
to the
seasons and the menu changes with availability of fine produce. Cooking
is
modern Euro - with hints of the Middle East - and shows skill and
passion. There
are options of "wine
me, dine
me" or simply "feed me" where you hand over control to your
waiter after specifying a spending limit, and dishes flow until you're
satisfied. The wine list is very short but the selections are
interesting and
well priced.
Lovely food, friendly, helpful and endlessly knowledgeable service make
The Commoner
rather special”
Bar None column,
Sunday Herald (deckofsecrets.com.au)
“The
inside story: Exposed brickwork and
enamel cookware hanging from the wall conspire to make The Commoner
feel like a
friend’s kitchen. And when it comes to drinking, the kitchen
is often the best
place to be.
The great outdoors:
So-called ‘cheeky smokers’ get a neat rear
courtyard with potted
herbs and garden trellises to inspire more healthful habits.
To drink:
A
wallet-friendly compilation of local and imported beers and wines. Most
vintages are under $40 per bottle.
To eat:
Being
a breakfast-to-supper kind of venue, there’s always something
cooking and it
will be seasonal. Bar snacks are Spanish and including
boccarones
(marinated white anchovies, $6) and prawn and bacon croquettes ($4).
The crowd:
With its very ‘mi casa, su casa’ vibe, The Commoner
tends to attract locals
looking for a good-value regular haunt.
Best for:
Languid wining and dining. You can start off with drinks, stay for
dinner and
go back to having drinks again”
Vogue
Entertaining & Travel, Jun/Jul 2007
“When Sam and Sam Clark of
London’s Moro were
in Australia, for the recent Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, they
were raving
about a new spot in Fitzroy. Hardly surprising since head chef Matthew
Donnelly
at The Commoner used to work for them. It was certainly enough to pique
our
interest, it’s a laidback bistro and courtyard affair.
There’s a rustic menu
for lunch and dinner (breakfast’s on the weekend) as well as the option of
“small food” in the
evenings. Owner Jo Corrigan was a chef at Alastair Little and The
Brackenbury,
both in London”
Meet
Me for a Drink, The Age, EG Section 28/05/08
“The Commoner is like a scene from a
movie perhaps
starring Hugh Grant and revolving around the wholesome lives of
mysteriously wealthy
European thirty- somethings who
eat very
well. Think white, white, white. Simple tablecloths, cosy candlelight,
good
wines, jolly groups of good-looking people and mild levels of sexual
tension”
MX
Newspaper, Christopher Hayes, 10/10/08 –
Score 13.5/20
“And the food,
well…ingredients that other
restaurants buy, they make in-house and it shows.
Fish at The Commoner changes with fresh
availability, ours was fillets of snapper served with perfect broccoli and good mash, the anchovy
paprika butter
lifting the snapper’s fresh sweet flesh. A simple dish but
exemplary both in
cooking and saucing.
More rustic is the grilled leg of lamb, the
meat slightly fatty (adding to the flavour) but with fine labne and a
crunchy
spring onion, it was gorgeous.
The Commoner may not be flash but
it’s very
comfortable. It has a feeling of hospitality that so many places with
million
dollar fit-outs don’t.
And I’d return often for the ever
changing
menu. The quality of the food at these prices make it a gem. Just love
this
place”
CitySearch Melbourne
“There’s
nothing
common about this place, with its very smart food influenced by the
best of
modern British cuisine with Middle Eastern influences.”
